Wednesday 15th November 2006.

On Thursday the 9th of November my presence was added to the teeming mass of peoples that reside in Nigeria. I now live amongst more than 130 million people, the most populous country within Africa. My journey here was largely uneventful, apart from a vacant look in the eyes of the check-in lady at the Aer Lingus desk, as my booking failed to register on her computer systems. Minutes later, a few phone calls made, panic subsided and my journey to West Africa had begun. This though was and is beyond a physical journey, it represents much, much more for me. This is my home and workplace for the immediate future.

For formalities sake, let’s clarify how I have made my way from my homestead in Mayo to West Africa. For the past year I have worked as an intern with Trócaire based in Maynooth Co. Kildare. An opportunity arose to further develop my career by taking up a position with Catholic Relief Services (CRS), a sister agency of Trócaire, based in Abuja, Nigeria. Now as I settle into a new job and way of life, I will recount my personal experiences and impressions of this immense country.

Arriving in Abuja, one is struck by the orderliness of the streets and a shining, spanking new soccer stadium, as you approach the city gates. Abuja, a city of some two million, was crafted from the bush, beginning in the late seventies to become the capital of Nigeria in the mid 80’s. It is a city of wide roads that circle the city and intersecting avenues, the latter named after various leaders, democratic and undemocratic, many of whom, have amassed great personal wealth through corruption and greed.

The revenues derive from oil. Oil is at once lubricant and abrasive in this fractured country. Oil greases the lines of patronage that hold political alliances together but has created grave tensions and conflict in the Niger Delta, the source of Nigeria’s oil in the southern provinces of Nigeria.

Nigeria, divided into three regions upon independence in 1960, is now a collection of thirty six states and a federal capital territory held together in some manner by a federal government system. Nigeria at present is a hive of political activity and intrigue. Various figures are plotting and orchestrating to be a candidate for next year’s presidential elections due to take place in April next year. The place abounds with rumour and bright breezy billboards loom large over the streets and highways. Each candidate offers much; peace, prosperity, stability. This is what the country needs. Unfortunately their track records offer little and I have really no idea but only hope that some of these potential candidates can in some part match the rhetoric.
So, the highlights so far; arriving in a safe and orderly city, though regrettably one devoid of any real character and spirit, meeting a host of interesting people and characters, the most memorable perhaps, a singing troubadour on an off key guitar singing Hotel California and a wider ensemble of John Denver classics. This spectacle was set against the backdrop of a fish bar situated on the outskirts of Abuja. Within this open market, a host of ladies barbecue fresh fish and cook chips in pots perching on small open fires. Invariably, small children nestle snugly on their mother’s back, wrapped carefully and secured by a blanket acting as a harness. The children rest quietly in this African crèche. The fish bar offers a welcome contrast to Abuja, tented bars offer cold beers and men (mostly) hawk a variety of goods, from lighters, toothpicks to the latest DVDS. The goods are balanced upon the vendors’ heads, as they amble through the crowds looking to ply their wares. I like this place; it is atmospheric and abounds with life and energy.

Moving to a new country is both exciting and daunting at the same time. Though were one to dwell on the negativity that pervades our media regarding Africa, one would stay in the relative safety and sameness of Europe. Personally this represents a lost opportunity. Despite its problems, Nigeria affords immense opportunities for learning, friendship and an astounding milieu of sounds, sights and people. One can easily and blithely describe Nigeria as complex, when things seem inexplicable, one resorts to ascribing the word ‘complex’. Though at once, Nigeria is unfathomable, mysterious, it can be distilled to extreme poverty in the midst of plenty. More of that anon.